Day 5:
Kingussie to Ballindean – 82.5 miles
Planned mileage: 82.5 miles
Actual mileage: approx 84 miles (avoided the rough track in to The Peach House)
Cycling time: approx 6 miles
Accommodation: Staying with Reynolds family
After finishing our blog writing last night there was a whole load of noise out in the hotel corridor which sounded like someone was trying to demolish the place. Then a few minutes later it happened again in the opposite direction. And finally, some people went out and about 10 seconds later dogs started barking in the room next to us AND... from a room down the corridor. And it went on, and on, and on. Eventually we had a knock on the door which was one of our very apologetic hosts saying they'd gone on an urgent search for the dogs' owners. Who were duly summoned 15 minutes later and to their credit did also come and knock to apologise. Fortunately it wasn't late, so we watched the end of the news (liking the look of the weather forecast) and were still in bed well before 11.
Very good night's sleep and we both awoke properly refreshed before the alarm. We were surprised to go down to breakfast and find there were actually quite a few people staying and we were the last ones down. Another very hearty and tasty breakfast and we were rapidly ready to get on our way in the sunshine. Definitely a slightly quirky and unusual hotel (really more of a large guesthouse nowadays), but very comfortable and we were warmly welcomed and very well looked after.
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| Stunning Speyside sunshine |
The Speyside scenery was looking glorious in the sunshine, so we had a very relaxing start to our ride. However, before long we hit the A9 cycle path and the wind. And a few miles later a section of cycle path which was closed (for 10 months!!!) as it was being used for heavy trucks working on the A9 roadworks to make the road dual carriageway. All there was was a sign at the gate saying it was shut and to call a mobile number for 'transport of cycles'! So... there was incredibly nothing for it but to cycle on the A9, through the roadworks! Very dangerous for everyone, though fortunately it was at least quiet and they've nearly finished the dualling, so we were able to pedal on the other side of the cones, having to avoid the occasional heavy works vehicles. Most definitely not ideal and there may be a letter sent to the appropriate authorities.
Very relieved to turn off and take the back road to Dalwhinnie. From here it was pretty much straight into the fairly stiff headwind all the uphill way to Drumochter summit (462m). Fairly gradual incline, but it was still a hard slog, the sun was hiding and it felt rather cold. We were very glad when we started to make our way back down. This almost coincided with a swing round to the east, so we got rid of most of the wind too – bliss!
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| Earned chocolate reward at Drumochter summit! |
Cycling alongside the A9 doesn't sound very pleasant, but actually very little of the cycle path is immediately next to the road. Track surface is somewhat varied in quality, but it wiggles its way up and down around the railway and the river (most of which disappeared down a giant concrete plughole at one point – most mysterious) and is very quiet and rather pretty in a slightly bleak sort of way.
For the last 8ish miles down to Calvine we had a superb section of wide old road completely to ourselves and thoroughly enjoyed zooming along in the dappled light conditions alongside the river.
Lunch today was at The Watermill in Blair Atholl (down the same road as the station). Much anticipated (we've stopped there loads of times) and it certainly didn't disappoint. Making short work of toasties, pop, cake and hot chocolates, we were rapidly on our way again. Starting gently by undulating our scenic way to Pitlochry where we delayered in preparation of the anticipated climb to come. Now, if you're ever in the area you MUST cycle the A924 from Pitlochry to Bridge of Cally. A good (though manageable) climb up to 384m with a super smooth road surface to swoop and zoom down on (whooping all the way of course), before wiggling alongside the River Ardle on a tree lined road.
Turning onto the A93 to Blairgowrie you instantly hit horrible, rough & bumpy tarmac which is less fun, although the final swoop down towards the town is an amazing long, sweeping descent where some very good speeds can be made (well presumably, still not sorted out the cycle computer).
Quick coffee and cake stop at the new Wee Coffee Shop and it was onwards to Coupar Angus and back roads to Abernyte and Inchture. Glorious sunshine (still a bit of a chilly breeze) by this point, so cresting the ridge where you get your first glimpse of the silvery River Tay was beautiful. Having made great time this afternoon, we made our destination by 5:45 (8 hours after leaving this morning) to a lovely, family (Euan's parents were also here for dinner) welcome. A reviving cup of tea and a chat later and we thought we'd probably better get cleaned up before dinner.
Very relaxed rest of the evening and we're looking forward to a shorter cycling day tomorrow. Longest leg of our tour this time, but by no means the hardest. Very chilled out and now thoroughly used to being in the saddle!
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